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“I can assure you that the scariest flights of my life were crossing the Andes,” a Chilean pilot told me, when I flew from Santiago to Mendoza. He’d been flying over the mountains for more than fifteen years, he said, sometimes in a four-person plane. The high peaks present a Scylla and Charybdis problem in winter, when the jet stream intensifies and storms roll in from the Pacific. Fly high and get tossed around by mountain waves. Fly low and get driven toward the rocks by the zonda wind. “It can throw down a small airplane,” he said.